Collar, lapel, and facing construction for coats and similar garments



F. BLOISE ET AL Oct. 19

COLLAR, LAPEL, AND FACING CONSTRUCTION FOR COATS AND SIMILAR GARMENTS.Fi'led Sept. 1924 Patented Oct. 19,, 1926.

UNlTED STATES Lfiddfld PATENT OFFEQE.

FRANK BLOISE AND FRANK REDA, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

COLLAR, LAPEL, AND FACING CONSTRUCTION FOR COATS AND SIMILAR GARMENTS.

Application filed September 8, 1924. Serial No. 736,496.

- This-invention relates to coats, jackets and similar garments andparticularly to the formation of the collar, lapel and facing portion ofsuch garments and still more particularly to the construction of collar,lapels and facings of unitary or one-piece construction in striped goodsor fabrics whereby the stripes of the goods will be continuous in onedirection throughout the collar, lapels and facings; and the object ofthe invention is to provide a construction of the class specified inwhich a single pattern piece is provided for constructing a unitarycollar, lapel andfacing part or member for a garment; a still furtherobject being to provide a pattern piece which is so laid out and formedas to permit of the cutting of a piece of goods from which the unitarystructure is to be formed with the stripes of the goods extendinguniformly through the collar,

1 lapel and facing construction; and with these and other objects inview, the invention conslsts 1n a garment part of the class specn'iedconstructed in the manner and in accordance 1 with the methodhereinafter described and claimed.

The invention is fully disclosed in the following specification, ofwhich the accompanying drawing forms apart, in which the separate partsof our improvement are designated by suitable reference characters ineach of the views, and in which Fig. 1 is a perspective view of ajacket, the collar, lapel and facing portion of Which is made accordingto our invention.

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic View of a iece of goods with a pattern piecemounted t rereon indicating the method of placing said pattern andcutting the goods to form our improved garment part- Fig. 3 is aperspective view of the method of laying out the pattern piece.

Fig. 4 is a detailview of the garment piece made according. t ourinvention and llus trating themcthod of fashioning the collar portionthereof; and,

Fig. 5 is a detail view of the garment part cut from the fabric by theuse of the pattern as shown in Fig. 2 of the drawing.

ll-leretofore 'it has been customary in the formation of the collarlapel and facing portion of a coat. or jaclret, to fashion the collarproper independent of the facing and lapel portions of the garment andto attach the collar to the lapel portions at the notches usually formedtherein, and with the present method of procedure, it has been found tobe practically impossible to properly match the stripings in a stripedfabric so as to extend from the lapel portions of the garment throughthe collar portion thereof, and if this result is accomplished,considerable pains mut be devoted to the construction of the collar andlapel portions of the garment. The distinctive feature of our in ventionis to so cut the unitary collar, lapel and facing garment part from apiece of fabric, and to provide a properly constructed pattern piece forthe accomplishment of this result, whereby the stripes of the fabricWlll extend evenly and continuously through the facing, lapel and collarof the garment:

to produce a neat and finished appearance. In carrying our lnventiqninto effect, we first construct. a pattern plece 10 shown in Fig. 2 ofthe drawing and indicated in dot-.

ted lines in Fig. 3 of the drawing, in which latter figure, the methodof laying out the pattern piece is diagrammatically illustrated, and inthe use of the pattern piece, the collar forming portion 11 'thereof isplaced with its end adjacent'the folded edge 12 of a shect'of stripedfabric 13, the strips of which extend longitudinally of the sheet andparallel with the fold 12 thereof. The pattern piece. 10 is also placedin such manner that the outer edge of the lapel forming part 14 extendsin parallel relation with the stripes of the fabric, .except for anycurvatures or roundings that may .be desirable in the formation of thelapel or the facing of the coat or jacket as shown at 15 in Fig. 2 ofthe drawing.

When the fabric 13 is cut out from the pattern 10 shown in Fig. 2 andthe fabric extended, the substantial result of this operation isindicated inFig. 5 of. the drawing, in which it will be noted that thestripes 13 of the fabric 13 in the garment part 16,

formed as above set out, extend continuously through the facing, lapeland collar por-- 17 of the lapel lllt represented on the pattern piece10. Prior to securing the garment part 16 to the remainder of a garment,it is preferred that the inner or facing-portion of the collar of saidgarment part, be stretched laterally from the central portion thereof asindicatedat 19 in Fig. 4: of the drawing, this operation effecting aproper fitting of the collar around the neck of a wearer.

It will be noted on a consideration of Figs.

land 3 of the drawing, that the pattern to properly fit a p cce whenfolded, or a one-half pattern piece, or a garment part cut therefrom, isof such construction that the outer edge of the lapel and part ofthefacing forming portion of the pattern of such garment part is parallelwith the straight edge of the half or folded pattern piece from whichthe central portion of the collar is formed or in other words isparallel with the folded edge of the garment part out from said patternpiece in the manner illustrated in Fig. 2 whereby the resulting productor garment part will have arranged thereon, the stripes of the fabric inparallel relation to the outer edge of the lapel and facing portionsthereof, and also parallel to, the folded edge of the fabric, see Fig.2, from which the garment part is formed.

It will be understood that the pattern pic e 10 must be properly laidout to suit a predetermined garment size to effect a proper fitting ofthe garment, and especially the part 16 of the garment, constituting theunitary collar, lapel and facing construction. It will he noted that thefacing and lapel portionproper extends at right angles to a tangent lineextending from the curvature of the collar, or. in other words, thecollar is curved and extends in a direction at right angles to thelongitudinal line of the facing and lapel, as viewing the pattern piecefrom which one half of the complete garment part is formed. It has beenfound that inpractice a garment constructed with my improved unitarygarment part. will provide a perfect fitting around the neck andshoulders of'a wearer, if the size correct for such wearer, and thecompleted product produces a far better and neater appearance in theentire garment, and it will also be understood that a material saving intime and labor, especially in the: skill of a cutter and fitter, iseliminated or obviated in that the unitary garment part constructed andfashioned in the manner setout is bound given size whensuchgarment partis cut to the said given SlZC. It

,lel to the outer edges of said of the garment is will also beunderstood that the complete garment part may be cut from an extendedpiece of fabric by using an extended pattern piece or part in accordancewith the present procedure of tailoring, in which operation, theseparate side portions of the pattern piece will lie in the same manneras the half pattern piece shown in Fig. 2 of the'drawing, and otherchanges in and modifications of theconstruction and method of procedureherein set out, may be made within the scope of the appended claimswithout departing from the spirit of our invention or sacrificing itsadvantages.

Having fully described our invention, what we claimas new and desire tosecure by Letters-Patent, is 1- 1. A pattern piece for forming a unitarycollar, lapel and facing garment part from predetermined fabrics, theouter edge of the lapel forming portion of said pattern piece beingparallel to a line extending vertically through the central part of thecollar forming portion of said pattern piece.

2. A garment part of the class described, the collar, lapel and facingportions of which are of unitary construction and so fashioned from apredetermined striped fabric as to provide continuous arrangement of thestripes of the fabric entirely through the collar, lapels and facings,in lines paralla els.

Theherein described method of forming a garment part of unitaryconstruction comprising collar, lapels and facings, which consists inproviding a pattern piece, the outer edge of the lapel forming portionof which is parallel to a vertical line extending through the centralportion of the collar forming portion thereof, placing said patternpiece on a striped fabric with the outer edge of the lapel formingportion of the pattern in parallel relation with the stripes of thefabric and cutting the garment part from the fabric along the lines ofsaid pattern piece whereby in the resulting product, the stripes of thefabric extend through the collar, lapels and facings in parallelrelation to the outer edges of the lapels, folding said garment part toform the collar, lapels and facings, and fashioning the inner or facingportions of the collar to properly fit around the neck ofa wearer.

In testimony that we claim the-foregoing as our invention we have signedour names this 5th day of Sept, 1924.

FRANK BLOISE. FRANK REDA.

